An okay drive up the autostrada, but getting to the hotel and dropping off the car at Termini was not exactly a stress-free experience. We had gotten directions from Mapquest before leaving Sorrento, but those involved a lot of twists and turns that looked kind of confusing. So we consulted a map and decided to take a different route, which appeared to be a straight path -- coming in the Via Nomentana, which turned into Via XX Settembre, taking us only a block from our hotel.

Of course, what the maps don't show you is how many traffic lights there are, and just how long it will take you to creep along that road once you leave the ring road. The driving itself wasn't so bad (not really much worse than Boston traffic), but trying to navigate unfamiliar streets with unclear signs was a nightmare. Meanwhile, the clock was ticking, as we had to get the car back before 2 p.m. to avoid another day's rental fee. We eventually made it with 10 minutes to spare, but it was a white-knuckle experience that left the driver pretty well drained. It didn't help, once we arrived at the Termini Avis office, to find the clerk more interested in showing off his new cell phone to a friend than checking in our car.

In Rome we stayed at the Hotel Aberdeen, which was another excellent value. The location wasn't exactly charming, but it was quite convenient, and certainly felt very safe, being right across the street from the Ministry of Defense. It was only a block from Via Nazionale, where buses to everywhere came by about every 5 minutes, and just another couple blocks to Piazza Repubblica, where we could get the Metro. Mostly though we walked, since central Rome is so compact and walkable. We paid only 88 euro a night for a very nice double room, good breakfast included, and a charming and delightfully helpful staff. Our room (#18) was a good location, reasonably quiet, and just up the hall from the free Internet computer. Since the PC was very popular, it was handy to be close enough that we could easily check on when it was free if we were in the room.

After checking in, we walked around the neighborhood a bit. November is the season for student demonstrations, and one was going on just up the street near the Piazza Barberini. That was a spot I wanted to visit, since I work part time at Orchard House Museum (home of Louisa May Alcott) in Concord, MA, and Louisa had lived for some time in an apartment on the piazza (see photo at right).

Had our first gelato in Rome, at San Crispino. My choice of pear and armagnac was approved by the gelato barista, but we were amused when Mike's first selection was turned down as a bad combination. San Crispino obviously takes their gelato very seriously. He ended up with licorice and chocolate.

We walked on past the Trevi Fountain, where hundreds of tourists were lined up, I guess to throw their coins in the fountain. On the way back to the hotel we stopped in at the church of Sant'Andrea al Quirinale -- a baroque extravaganza by Bernini, all multi-colored marble and gilt with sculptures climbing out of the celings.

Had an excellent Tuscan-style dinner at Da Tullio, on via S. Nicola da Tolentino, near the Piazza Barberini. M had ribollita (bean soup) and agnolotti pasta in sugo. I had some of those fantastic Roman artichokes with the tall tender stems -- the best I ever ate, plus cannelloni alla Tullio, followed by a very good insalata misto and coffee. With the house wine, the bill was 87 euro -- not the greatest bargain, but very good food, and certainly a popular spot which filled to overflowing within the first several minutes after we sat down.