The weather was unexpectedly drizzly and gray as we headed out toward the Forum. Along the way we visited two churches -- first San Clemente with its many layers of history: a 12th-century building above a 4th-century Christian basilica, above a Roman temple to Mithras. Next stop: St. Peter-in-Chains, with its magnificent (and recently cleaned) horned Moses by Michelangelo.

In the Roman Forum umbrellas were the order of the day, but the rain never got harder than a heavy drizzle and didn't keep us from savoring the ancient atmosphere.

Next we took the #3 tram to Trastevere -- and concluded that, where it runs, the tram is a great way to get around. Comfortable, with good views, and (at least when we rode it) not nearly so crowded as the bus or metro. For a good description of riding tram routes 3 and 19 to get to some popular Rome spots, see the Cadogan Rome guidebook. Here is some excellent information on the tram routes that I wish we'd had ahead of time.

Had a good pizza lunch at Natalino e Figli in Trastevere, then walked around to the Church of S. Maria with beautiful golden mosaics (13th century).

Dinner at Santa Cristina's near the Quirinale. My risotto with beets and gorgonzola was very good, but Mike's green gnocchi, though a specialty of the house, was a bit on the bland side. Back to San Crispino's for gelato -- honey and chocolate, and licorice plus ginger-cinnamon.