The day dawned crisp and clear -- the best weather of the trip so far. Up and out early to visit two neighborhood churches. First, Santa Maria della Vittoria with Bernini's ecstatic Santa Teresa. Then to the amazing S. Maria degli Angeli, designed by Michelangelo within the massive Baths of Diocletian. The enormous scale of the church is breathtaking and so huge the space is hard to comprehend.

Took the Metro over to the Spanish Steps, then enjoyed a pleasant walk through the Borghese park to the Gallery for an 11 a.m. reservation. After spending some time with Bernini, Caravaggio, and friends we moved on to the resplendent views of Rome from the heights of the Pincio, over Piazza del Popolo across to St. Peter's.

We had an excellent lunch at Melarancio (via del Vantaggio 43 near the Piazza del Popolo), where the food was a treat for both the eyes and the tastebuds. I loved my choices of eggplant antipasto (something like a lasagna) and fish fillet with a potato crust. M enjoyed the spinach souffle antipasto, but his beef with ruchetta wasn't as good as the same dish had been a few years back at Cinghiale Bianco in Florence. (About that point he admitted he should just give up and let me order for him, since I always seemed to end up with the better meals.)

Walked down the arty Via Margutta, where May Alcott (Louisa's sister) took painting lessons in the 19th century, and about 100 years later, Gregory Peck shared a room with Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday. The weather was pleasant enough to sit outdoors and sip coffee in the Piazza del Popolo until the church of S. Maria del Popolo re-opened and we could stop in to see the wonderful St. Peter and St. Paul Caravaggios.

Next we joined the early evening passeggiata down Via del Corso (much of it a pedestrian-only avenue) with its many shops. The blueberry and coconut gelato were calling me from Giolitti's once again. This time Mike sampled riso (rice) and Grand Marnier.

We weren't very hungry for dinner, and decided to try the Target pizzeria just up the street from the hotel. The food wasn't memorable, and the waiters were a bit pretentious (wouldn't let us share a pizza unless we ordered something else), but we did enjoy people-watching the hip young clientele. The place seems to expend more effort on decor and ambience than on the cooking.